KeyShot Forum

Technical discussions => Rendering => Topic started by: niv313 on November 07, 2018, 12:48:33 AM

Title: How was this scene made so realistic
Post by: niv313 on November 07, 2018, 12:48:33 AM
Hi,
I came across this 3d views of diamond rings, that are amazingly realistic.
https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/18k-yellow-gold-2mm-comfort-fit-solitaire-engagement-ring-item-1484 (https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/18k-yellow-gold-2mm-comfort-fit-solitaire-engagement-ring-item-1484)
I can't seem to reach a quality like this in my models.
How would you make something of a similar quality?
Title: Re: How was this scene made so realistic
Post by: DMerz III on November 07, 2018, 05:54:41 AM
Welcome to the forum!

:) Those are some nice renderings, but definitely achievable if you know what elements to push and pull.
It would be helpful to us if we saw what you currently have, that way we can recommend where to start and give specific feedback rather than shooting in the dark for the answers you need. Maybe post some screenshots?
Title: Re: How was this scene made so realistic
Post by: RRIS on November 09, 2018, 05:11:17 AM
The geometry visible and materials don't look particularly special, so if there's anything there that you can't achieve it will most likely be in the lighting and reflections. I'll take a stab at it:

Looks like the ring was placed on a white ground plane and has an equally large plane directly above it. That ceiling plane looks to be lit with a bunch of hidden area / IES lights, just to create some soft streaks in the reflections. Inbetween the planes there's a few bright area lights (the sharp bright spots visible on the edge of the ring). Looks like the background beyond those planes is just black (which will give you maximum contrast with the lights).
The gold looks like a standard metal material, the diamond can be done with a dielectric material (with dispersion enabled). Enable caustics and global illumination in your lighting tab as well.

edit: the animations for the purchased rings look like turntable videos of the purchased product, not CG.
Title: Re: How was this scene made so realistic
Post by: niv313 on November 13, 2018, 10:32:57 AM
WOW, thank you so much for your advice. it really helped
so here is what i got for now,
It's better but still i'm lacking the realism i'd like to achieve, any pointers?
(sorry for the watermarks, i'm testing the new keyshot 8 )
Title: Re: How was this scene made so realistic
Post by: DMerz III on November 13, 2018, 05:11:22 PM
 :) you're doing a lot of the proper things. I am not a jewelry expert, and I know there are quite a few of those specialist on these forums, hopefully they chime in. The first thing I would look into is your ground shadow. Are you using the default 'ground shadows' in the lighting tab, or did you place in a physical ground plane?

Doing the latter, is step one to getting better GS.

The next thing is to work on your lighting, the contrast feels right, but the shapes of the lights distract from the shape. I would learn how to do a custom HDRI in the editor from scratch, keep it simple and pay attention to the 'shape' of the pins and how they're creating shapes on your ring. A colleague of mine once said "make them felt, not seen" (always gives me a chuckle).
Title: Re: How was this scene made so realistic
Post by: niv313 on November 15, 2018, 12:24:19 AM
Thanks DMerz,
that was really good advice.
so i got a new render, which i think is better. but i think the material is not dead on.
any ideas on how to get the material better?
Title: Re: How was this scene made so realistic
Post by: DMerz III on November 15, 2018, 12:03:56 PM
I'm not really a metals/jewelry expert but in reality, nothing is absolutely that polished, there's always going to be some kind of surface imperfections. I would work on adding those but in a subtle manner. There's plenty of examples of how to achieve that on these forums and on the youtube channel. Also, if you're playing around with Ks8, I would go ahead and turn on photographic mode via the image settings, that is a default for me when I'm dealing with high contrast materials. You'll get more range to push and pull those highlights and shadows.