Hi all;
Hope I'm not boring you with all my funky old trucks! But, they're fun and I enjoy sharing them. Both 1923 (hey, I'm moving toward the 21st Century) Ford Model TT "Heavy" trucks, 125" wheelbase, 40 HP and worm-drive rearend with a top speed of 28 mph. Real rockets! But they could, and did, go anywhere unlike most of todays 4 wheel supositories. For reference, the flatbed is smaller than a queen size bed!
SolidWorks + KS Pro 3.0.99. No Photoshop except my signature. Lighting my own HDR-LightStudio.
I mapped the heck on these to correctly orient the wood grain. And I really need to get out and shoot some new backplates!
The last shot is my all time favorite "Funky Ford", with all the charm that attracts me to this era in automotive history.
Bill G
Bill - Those are great.
You definitely have the rust texture perfected.
The only suggestion I have, and this applies to all car renders in general, is to rotate the wheels so the spokes on all four wheels are not perfectly aligned.
Ed
Thanks, Ed. I so totally agree about the spokes alignment, and so totally forget every time! Partially it's because I now put a small flat on the tire to sit them on the ground, which would then require four different wheel assembly configurations. But it's worth the effort! Thanks for the reminder to all of us car guys!
Bill G
Awesome work!
I also love the last one. Nice renders! Thanks for sharing! ;)
Of course, the last Funky Ford image is a "real" photo, whatever that means anymore!
Bill G
Lol no wonder why I like it so much haha whoops
For whatever it's worth, this is how I color mapped in SolidWorks so I could apply the wood texture with the correct grain directions. On the spokes, you can copy/paste to the opposite spoke. I created a bump map for the weathered wood in FilterForge.
Bill G
Wow, those are awesome, some of the coolest trucks I've seen modelled :-)
Cheers!
Bill,
Very cool stuff. Your rust is looking better everytime you do it.
Your model is sweet also.
We need to find away to make the trucks sit and feel heavier in the background. I feel and this is only my opinion your 90% there. Once you can get the trucks to feel heavy and become part of the background this will take these images to the next level.
If you wouldn't mind I would love to take a crack at it. PM me if your interested.
Thanks for sharing Keep up the great work !
Tim
Tim, I totally agree with your comment about getting our models (all, not just mine- it's noticable even in the pro car renders) to sit heavier and more solid into the background, or actually, into the scene and environment. I've thought a lot about this over the past year, and frankly have not nailed it yet. I see it even more on my four-ton Case Tractor. It's heavy! But sits lightly. And it's more than just weight on the ground...
I have added a flat on the bottom of the tires, but that's not enough, and, at least in my case, a slight bulge is not an option due to the way I use these models in my product line. I do think the tires need a broader flat to make it sit deeper into the ground. See attached "real" image. Also, I've noticed that it's very difficult to get the model planted without leaving a slight gap under at least one tire that has to be sponged out. It's a perspective thing I think.
Another issue may be the density of the ground shadow, which I set at quality level 2. In most cases it's just not dark or dense enough. Shadows look fine if the model is on a ground plane, but not against a backplate. The HDR I use most for these shots is "Dry Lake", with added light and reduced luminosity in HDR LightStudio.
I think there are a few tricks we can all benefit from to better plant our models. It could be the subject of an entire tutorial! Go for it!
I'll PM you...
Bill G
Great job, thx for sharing your tips ;)
I would like to know why your put different colors in rays for the KeyShot , Speedster...
Your work is still impressive. I
QuoteI would like to know why your put different colors in rays for the KeyShot
The decision to map in different colors depends on our design intent. KeyShot needs "instructions" as to that intent, and carefully thinking out the color UV mapping is a big help later.
For example, the wheel spokes, or "rays". If the wheel is only going to be one color of paint, then the rays only need to be mapped in one color, or for that matter, the entire wheel would be mapped only one color.
However, the spokes on my wheels are actually oak, and the wood grain needs to be straight from one end to the center. So, knowing this, I mapped all the colors to identify to KeyShot that they are separate surfaces. This way I could now apply the oak material to a single spoke, then align and correct the grain angle and scale. Then simply copy/paste to the opposite spoke.
Hope this helps...
Bill G
www.GouldStudios.com (http://www.gouldstudios.com)
oh... I can understand... You