Gameboy Color Renderings

[Rob Shook]

Hey Keyshot family,
I've been visiting these forums for years and I'm excited to finally make my first post!

During quarantine I decided I wanted to improve my Keyshot skills. I've always wanted to learn to make hyper realistic renderings. I figured the best way to learn would be to reference an actual product I have on hand. I picked up a Gameboy Color and tore it apart to start modeling all the pieces. My goal is to make an exploded view once I have everything modeled.
Here are the first few renderings.

To create the CAD model of of the front housing I used a technique called photogrammetry.
Basically you take photos from dozens of different angles and photogrammetry software can create a detailed STL file you can use a reference.
I can post some more photos of that process if anyone is interested.

[AlexDsouza]

This is awesome!

Was the PCB also generated using photogrammetry or did you model it manually? looks great either way!

[Josh3D]

Hi Rob! Welcome! My goodness, these are EXCELLENT. I think you nailed both. Really looking forward to seeing more of your work!

[Snogen]

Well done! I am certainly interested in the photogrammetry part! Show us all the stuff!

[Rob Shook]

Thanks for the encouraging comments all!
The PCB i modeled using just a top down reference photo.

Heres some more info on the photogrametry process.
Photogrametry software doesn't work on glossy or transparent objects. It also needs lots of small details for the software to reference.
I've found it works best when I spay the parts with a washable chalk spay and then use a toothbrush to create splatters.

You should be able to walk around your object to take photos, however I got the best results when I shot the object on a green screen with a turntable.
Photogrametry software expects to see the background move with each change in angle. The creases in the green screen will mess up the software so
I used a Photoshop batch command to delete the green screen in my photos.

Having a detailed 3D scan is especially useful on parts that have compound curvature or geometry that's difficult to measure.
I tried both Meshroom (free) and Autodesk RePhoto (paid) and got simmilar results from both.
There's lots of other photogrametry software options if either of those don't work for you.
The resuting scans seem to be quite accurate. I don't have a way to measure accuracy but I'd guess they're about +/- 0.2mm.
Not bad for free software!

I uploaded an STL of the Raybans if anyone wants to check it out for themselves.
You can also export OBJ files with a color map from the scan but I typically just use the STLs

[Zeltronic]

I see you are using a 50mm lens mounted on an Eos 70d, is this the lens you got the best results with? Having looked at what was done in photogrametry, I have the impression that many people say that they get better results with wide angle lenses, what is your opinion on the question?

[Rob Shook]

I'm quite new to photography. I got my 70D with the 18-135mm zoom lens and I wasn't happy with the sharpness and depth of field I was getting from that. I heard you can get better sharpness from a prime lens and since the 50mm was only $125 it seemed like a good 2nd lens for me. I certainly got sharper photos with wider depth of field from the 50mm and it resulted in better photogrametry scans.

I hadn't heard about wide angle lens providing better results before.
That seems to make sense though. If I'm not mistaken you get a wider field of view the smaller your focal length is. I wonder if that's why people get better results with it.

[mohammadreza.laj]

this is amazing and I am proud of you my friend